Gordy and I do the 15 minute paddle out again to catch the last 4 heats of the contest. We can't believe our luck...well it's way more then luck as we booked these tickets 6 months ago never imagining we will have seen one of the most memorable surf events in history.
We see tube after tube with an excited crowd from the best seat in the house sitting on a surfboard in the channel. Kelly Slater and Owen Wright put on an amazing final and the "old bald man" Slater, age 39, defeats the 23-year-old rookie.
The hooter goes, everyone flocks to the finalists...and only 4 paddle over to the break. I figure I might as well be one of them and since they all make it look so easy...actually it isn't!
I had local advice, "Be careful paddling for a smaller inside one because those west bowl sets can nail you," quietly nudging me...as I paddled for a smaller inside one when it came.
The largest west bowl set of the day; huge, blue, and a solid 8ft, pitching right on my head! I quickly realized I couldn't out paddle it so bailed in a metre of water and experienced some of the most violent turbulence ever. Took another on the head, creased a rail but was still able to get one tube and a couple of left overs and paddle back in.
Saw the end of the presentation ceremony, watched Kelly mobbed and Owen left alone. Caught up with Abe again then back to Papeete to Kevin's where we inspected a car sized hole in his front yard that had been sucked out of a hole in his sea wall due to the massive impact of the swell. Tehani cooks us a great dinner and we are treated by the kids Manaari and Heirani with dessert. Email catch up, a late night prayer and it's another midnight.
I would like to come another time and get to know this place!
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