Hawaii Day 4 Eddie Contest Runs

Day 4 - Super Tuesday. Up at first light and the wind has groomed the giant swell like giant furrows in a field. It's clear skies and in the dark already the roads are jammed solid. Many are wondering if it is big enough as sets are far apart, when suddenly a perfect 30' set gets ridden. I'm not going anywhere, you can't get in or out and smart locals are riding bikes.

We start watching from across the bay and see Kelly Slater annihilate his heat even pulling into a 25' tube. Spectacular gladiator stuff with the Waimea colosseum packed. The crowd is baying for blood. If surfers make the outside and ride inside to the killer shorebreak they can connect another section there. Time and time again surfers go and do the unthinkable before a screaming cheering crowd. Without the jetskis there would have been serious drownings.

We end the day across the other side on the edge of the point as close as one can passing through wet rocks to the sounds of warnings from lifeguards that we are on dangerous ground. Some sets blow spray over the people in front of us. But we are close enough to see surfer after surfer throw themselves off moving four-storey buildings of water.

Highlights:
Shane Dorian's free fall wipeout on a 35 footer
Greg Long's 100 point winner
Chilean Ramone monster take off backhand
Kelly pulling under the lip again in his second heat.

So many times I'm staring open mouthed at Scotty and Chris saying, "Can you believe what we are seeing!"

Contest over and sets are pouring in and barely anyone out. It seems to be smaller on dusk and I note two girls!!! with rather large testicles, waxing up with the rest of the post contest crew about to paddle out. "Maybe it isn't really that bad, maybe I could paddle out and watch?" I kid myself as we walk up the hill. A closeout set marches through and decides for me.

Poor Eric arrives home from Brazil having missed it all. I'm meant to go home in the morning but with decreasing swell and perfect conditions I suggest staying another day. I just want to acknowledge I have the best wife in the world who texts back and says, "Of course you should stay and make the most of it xxx." Gill I love you!

I go online and rebook. We watch news reports, eat expensive ice cream and talk theology with Eric. Great to be around a godly man and a godly grom in Scotty.